Jacques Reynaud, who died in 1997, was one of the true characters in Châteauneuf. A notoriously shy and private man, he was known to avoid appointments by hiding in ditches that lined the rutted driveway leading to his château. However, he was recognised as one of the world’s greatest winemakers and the legacy of Château Rayas is now continued by his son François.

So many practices here seem to run contrary to other producers in Châteauneuf – the 13 hectares of vines are north facing and contain none of the fabled “galets roulés”. Only Grenache is used and yields at around 15hl/h are ridiculously low. Almost uniquely the wines are matured in the now rarely seen 450 litre “double-piéce” oak casks. These are substantial and exotically rich wines that are quite literally unique.