With more than 500 years of history and the lion’s share of one of Burgundy’s most hallowed grand crus, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is a cornerstone of Burgundian legend and a vinous dream for modern connoisseurs.
Certainly the greatest estate in Chambolle-Musigny if not in greater Burgundy, de Vogüé for 20 generations has been steward of the village’s top terroirs. The estate owns some 80 percent of grand cru Le Musigny, and a significant portion of grand cru Bonnes-Mares. Its premier cru Chambolle-Musigny is crafted exclusively from younger-vine fruit in Musigny and its Musigny Blanc is crafted from younger-vine Chardonnay grown also in Musigny.
The style of de Vogüé is the epitome of Chambolle—delicate aromas, refined yet profound flavors, a finish made of silk. These are wines that come into their own not ten years down the line but 30; a cellar without a selection of de Vogüé is a cellar missing the soul of Burgundy.
95-97 Points Jasper Morris
Three tanks were made, in order of picking, then assembled as there is no terroir logic to them, though this has changed for 2022. A fine bright and reasonably deep purple. Classy with just a touch of pepper. Less immediately compelling that some previous vintages, but it is growing steadily in the glass. There is a huge volume of red and black fruit intertwined with a fresh mineral streak running through the middle, supplying excellent length to complete the job. Splendid stuff! A firmer finish but there is plenty of time for that to resolve. Drink from 2030-2040.
95-97 Points Vinous
The 2021 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru underwent a picked piecemeal from the 30 different plots to find the best order that actually was linked to vine age. It has a gorgeous bouquet with brambly red fruit, loam, blood oranges and subtle graphite aromas. Superb delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, fresh citrus like acidity, tensile and focused. This is a very classic, mineral-driven Musigny with surfeit of salinity that gets the saliva flowing on the finish. So bright on the finish.
97 Points James Suckling
A giant amongst the 2021 Grand Cru red Burgundies, but still a sleeping giant. In spite of the stunning concentration on the rather full-bodied palate for the vintage, the stony minerality and bright acidity gives this great drive at the very long finish. A hint of green pepper from the use of whole clusters on the nose. Try from 2026.