Jean-Marc Roulot has developed something of cult-like status for his wines, perhaps second only to those of Coche-Dury in the village of Meursault. The reasons for this are quite simple: they are of excellent quality; they can be exceedingly difficult to obtain; and above all, they are absolutely compelling.
Drawing from a little less than nine hectares of vineyards, including four premier crus of painfully small sizes, the vineyards have all been organic for around 20 years, and in more recent times are gradually being converted to biodynamics.
Roulot’s wines are invariably very complex wines, whilst less rich than those of, say, Comte Lafon, they are still fully-flavoured and age superbly.
92-95 Points Allen Meadows
An ultra-pure, discreet and distinctly airy nose offers up notes of citrus, green apple, matchstick and hints of acacia and hazelnut. The sophisticated, intense and lilting middle weight flavors are finer still and a bit more mineral-inflected as well before concluding in a strikingly long if almost delicate finish. As all really good examples of Bouchères are, this is a gorgeous combination of finesse and class. Marvelous.
95 Points Robert Parker Wine Advocate
The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères is showing superbly from bottle, bursting with aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, white currants, dried flowers, nutmeg and fresh pastry. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and supple, with an enveloping but incisive profile, underpinned by electric acids and chalky extract. Confirming its status as the pretender to the throne chez Roulot, this is worth a special effort to seek out.
17.5/20 Jancis Robinson
Glorious ripe spicy intensity on the nose but also a savoury spice and a hint of lees texture. Much more severe on the palate, vertical and stony, electric freshness. Contrasting nose and palate, finishing on persistent finesse.