Ulysse Collin’s home is in the village of Congy in the Coteaux du Petit Morin, 30 kms south-west of Epernay. The business is managed by the talented head of the business Olivier Collin. The principles of singularity and expressing terroir are nowadays the signatures of his estate Olivier produces exclusively single-vineyard champagnes made from naturally farmed fruit using sustainable farming practices.
His work in the cellar is similarly straightforward, with an emphasis on minimal interference. He uses native yeasts and as little sulphur as possible (the aim is 50–65 mg/l), and the wines are topped off with minimal dosage (a maximum of 2.4 g/l) and bottled at a lower pressure than most. All of his base wines come into contact with oak and the reserve wines are aged in barrels and casks. Each cuvée is disgorged twice a year, the perfect time being mid-February, “when it is cool and there is less oxidation risk” and before “temperatures and workloads in the vineyard increase.”
94 Points Antonio Galloni
The NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons (2016 base) is effusive in its aromatics and also wonderfully deep, while also remaining light on its feet. This is an eccentric, heady style that really emphasizes the breadth of Pinot in its perfumed, fruit and structural feel. I would give the Maillons a bit more time in bottle to fully come together. Bright saline notes cut through a core of sweet red cherry, kirsch, dried flowers and spice. I loved it.