With more than 500 years of history and the lion’s share of one of Burgundy’s most hallowed grand crus, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is a cornerstone of Burgundian legend and a vinous dream for modern connoisseurs.
Certainly the greatest estate in Chambolle-Musigny if not in greater Burgundy, de Vogüé for 20 generations has been steward of the village’s top terroirs. The estate owns some 80 percent of grand cru Le Musigny, and a significant portion of grand cru Bonnes-Mares. Its premier cru Chambolle-Musigny is crafted exclusively from younger-vine fruit in Musigny and its Musigny Blanc is crafted from younger-vine Chardonnay grown also in Musigny.
The style of de Vogüé is the epitome of Chambolle—delicate aromas, refined yet profound flavors, a finish made of silk. These are wines that come into their own not ten years down the line but 30; a cellar without a selection of de Vogüé is a cellar missing the soul of Burgundy.
97 Points Allen Meadows
Note: from an incredible 6.46 ha parcel, which doesn’t include the .67 ha section planted to chardonnay. A more restrained if just as pretty and equally perfumed nose displays a similar array of red and dark cherry, exotic jasmine tea and dried orange peel along with a hint of sandalwood. On the palate the broad-shouldered and even more concentrated flavors manage the trick of being more powerful but also more refined with an almost aggressive minerality that seems to build in intensity on the compact, youthfully austere and massively long finale. This is however exceptionally firm and is very much a ‘buy and forget you own it’ wine. In a word, superb.
97-99 Points Vinous
I tasted the 2023 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru both as components from the seven different cuvées that make the final blend and as an approximation of the final blend itself. This has exquisite delineation on the nose: blackberry, raspberry, crushed stone and touches of undergrowth—very harmonious. The palate is medium-bodied, tightly wound and linear, with a sense of symmetry on the entry. But of all the Musigny tasted from barrel in 2023, this has perhaps the most nascent freshness, tension and complexity on the finish. A sense of completeness. Outstanding.
97-98 Points Jasper Morris
I asked for the blend rather than tackling the individual components. A fine bright rich purple. An exquisite bouquet, still a baby but you can feel that there is a multitude of detail to follow. The fruit flows exquisitely across the palate. There is some barely ripe redcurrant fruit, a wealth of fresh raspberry and strawberry, then some darker fruit, a perfect poise and balance with tannin and acidity, and exquisite length. This is growing on me in steady stages. Resonance is the word, thinks Jean Lupatelli. Drink from 2033-2048. Tasted Nov 2024.