With more than 500 years of history and the lion’s share of one of Burgundy’s most hallowed grand crus, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is a cornerstone of Burgundian legend and a vinous dream for modern connoisseurs.
Certainly the greatest estate in Chambolle-Musigny if not in greater Burgundy, de Vogüé for 20 generations has been steward of the village’s top terroirs. The estate owns some 80 percent of grand cru Le Musigny, and a significant portion of grand cru Bonnes-Mares. Its premier cru Chambolle-Musigny is crafted exclusively from younger-vine fruit in Musigny and its Musigny Blanc is crafted from younger-vine Chardonnay grown also in Musigny.
The style of de Vogüé is the epitome of Chambolle—delicate aromas, refined yet profound flavors, a finish made of silk. These are wines that come into their own not ten years down the line but 30; a cellar without a selection of de Vogüé is a cellar missing the soul of Burgundy.
98-99 Points James Suckling
Very deep nose with aristocratic reserve, this shows a lot more on the expansive, concentrated and intensely mineral palate. With aeration notes of sour cherry and summer flowers develop, but its the stony core that makes this so compelling. Super-long and super-precise finish. Will need years to display its full glory!
95-100 Points Jasper Morris
As mentioned in the introduction, there are seven separate parcellaire cuvées of Musigny which will be blended. We tried four of them, representing different sectors. Les Petits Musigny (north): An even purple, succulent red fruit. Fresh raspberry and strawberry, touch of liquorice, very even, fair acidity, soft tannins. Les 13 ouvrees: Stonier than north Musigny. A touch darker in colour and definitely a richer bouquet, more headily floral. More clearly the weight of Musigny, but also shows as quite a bit riper. Grand Musigny Haut: A glowing mid purple. A lovely tensile strength, not so evidently ripe, but correctly so, red to dark red in fruit. Good acidity, and fairly complete. Grand Musigny Bas: Glowing purple perhaps fractionally deeper than the upper part. The nose is less extrovert but clearly has superb class and a poised density. The sense of completeness of GM Haut but noticeably more intense through the mid palate. The fruit is a fraction riper, perfectly so, with a few suggestions of dark raspberry in the fruit. Very persistent indeed and a freshness to the finish, enough to make a major wine. I don’t feel it correct to award five stars until I have seen the full blended wine, preferably in bottle, but I certainly don’t rule that out.