With more than 500 years of history and the lion’s share of one of Burgundy’s most hallowed grand crus, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is a cornerstone of Burgundian legend and a vinous dream for modern connoisseurs.
Certainly the greatest estate in Chambolle-Musigny if not in greater Burgundy, de Vogüé for 20 generations has been steward of the village’s top terroirs. The estate owns some 80 percent of grand cru Le Musigny, and a significant portion of grand cru Bonnes-Mares. Its premier cru Chambolle-Musigny is crafted exclusively from younger-vine fruit in Musigny and its Musigny Blanc is crafted from younger-vine Chardonnay grown also in Musigny.
The style of de Vogüé is the epitome of Chambolle—delicate aromas, refined yet profound flavors, a finish made of silk. These are wines that come into their own not ten years down the line but 30; a cellar without a selection of de Vogüé is a cellar missing the soul of Burgundy.
95-98 Points Allen Meadows
As is often the case, this is aromatically similar to the Chambolle 1er but it’s less expressive and perhaps more densely fruited. There is notably better mid-palate concentration to the substantially sized big-bodied flavors that also possess a positively gorgeous mouthfeel while exuding an abundance of mineral character on the hugely long and impeccably well-balanced and youthfully austere finale. This Zen-like effort is superb and a wine that should also age gracefully over the next two decades.
99 Points Decanter
The mature vines in the domaine’s immense holding (5.56ha of old vines) have given us a wine with the youthful, plummy exuberance of Chambolle but with added precision and depth, revealing saline mineral notes, plus hints of flowers and spice. On the palate, the silky texture initially beguiles, and with time the firm structure and long finish become evident. Ageing in 35% new casks helps the wine retain an admirable purity of fruit. The 2020 vintage was the last vinified by François Millet, who took his retirement at a high point in his career.