The domaine was founded in 1924 by Georges Roumier, who began domaine bottling in 1945. He was succeeded in 1957 by his son Jean-Marie and now grandson Christophe, who joined his father in 1982 and took over completely in 1992. Most of the wines are rented (en fermage) from family members although Ruchottes Chambertin is held on a share cropping deal with an external proprietor, Michel Bonnefond. The wines are seductively fruity in their youth yet with excellent ageing potential.
The grapes are sorted in the vineyard, with a table de tri at the winery since 2003. They are mostly destemmed, albeit depending on vineyard and vintage, with a few more stems being used recently – then placed in wooden fermenters. The juice is given a cool soak at 15° then allowed to start naturally. The juice is punched down twice a day and temperature controlled so as not to exceed 32°C.
There is no great reliance on new wood in the maturation cellar, with 15-25% being used for village wines, 25-40% for premiers crus and no more than 50% for Bonnes Mares. In recent years Christophe has been searching for, and achieving, a greater sense of precision in his wines.
91-93+ Points Robert Parker Wine Advocate
Unwinding in the glass with aromas of raspberries, smoky cherries, rich soil tones and warm spices, Roumier’s 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière is medium to full-bodied, lively and vibrant, with a fleshy core of fruit framed by youthfully chalky tannins that assert themselves on the finish. The most underrated wine in the Roumier cellar, this is a fine prospect for the patient.
90-92 Points Allen Meadows
Ripe yet agreeably fresh aromas include those of poached plum, spice, violet and newly turned earth. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the fleshy and rounded medium-bodied flavors that terminate in a firm, mildly rustic and warm finale. This should repay extended keeping yet be approachable after 6 to 8 years if that’s your preference.