Domaine des Comtes Lafon is based in Meursault, where it has holdings in each of the finest Cru and Premier Cru vineyards in Meursault. They have a reputation for maintaining the signature character of each site in their wines. They don’t rest on their laurels, though, their red wines from their Volnay Premiers Crus are increasingly popular and should not be overlooked.
The domaine was established in 1869 by the Boch family and has remained in their care ever since – only changing its name when Marie Boch married Comte Jules Lafon in ‘94. When fourth-generation Dominique Lafon took charge in 1985, Domaine des Comtes Lafon already had a reputation for unconventional yet outstanding white wines.
At the time, most of the vineyards were leased out to sharecroppers; but by ‘93 Dominique had reclaimed all of his family’s vineyards and assumed full control of the domaine. Not only are the Lafons’ 15 individual vineyards located in the best appellations in Meursault and Volnay, but they tend to be very well situated within them, and are now cultivated according to organic and biodynamic principles. In 2010, Jasper Morris wrote in his book ‘Inside Burgundy’, that their white wines were “now consistently among the best in Burgundy, while since 1989 the reds have reached the top division”.
In ‘99 the Lafon family branched out, buying a domaine in the Mâconnais at Milly-Lamartine and making wines under the name of ‘Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon’. More recently, Dominique Lafon has also established a small label of his own bearing his own name.
90 Points Allen Meadows
The cool and pure nose is comprised by note of essence of freshly sliced apple and lemon rind along with subtle hints of hazelnut, matchstick and spice. The generous, round and fleshy medium-bodied flavors possess fine volume and richness while displaying impressive length on the balanced finale. As it often is, this is excellent and particularly so for a villages level wine. This too is lovely and is a wine that should drink well both young and with mid-term aging.
92+ Points Robert Parker Wine Advocate
The 2017 Meursault Clos de la Barre has turned out very well, opening in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of citrus oil, clear honey, green orchard fruit and almond paste that’s actually less forthcoming than the Perrières at this very early stage. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple and satiny, with tangy acids, good concentration, and a lively, saline finish. While this will be approachable young, expect real complexity to emerge with a decade’s bottle age.