Domaine Denis Mortet in Burgundy was founded by Denis Mortet in the early 1990s. He died at the age of 51, after taking his own life in January 2006. In his brief, but highly acclaimed passage from the winemaking scene, he rose to become a colossal figure in Burgundy, fashioning wines from relatively modest vineyard holdings which punch far above their weight. He rose to fame with an exceptional range of wines from the 1993 vintage.
He believed with a deep passion that the work in the vineyard was everything. But there was an essential contradiction to his work: he yearned to make wines of finesse and style, but everything he did in the vineyard and cellar tended towards sumptuous wines of almost unparalleled weight and opulence, which achieved cult status and a devoted following. But the harder he drove himself, the further from his stated aim he went. Only now, under son Arnaud and the watchful eye of his mother Laurence, are the wines achieving the minerality and elegance (and seemingly without sacrificing weight) that Denis sought.
At the domaine everything starts in the vineyard, where every measure is taken to produce the finest, ripest fruit possible, creating a style of wine which, as Denis used to say is “a pleasure to drink young or old.” This is an estate of young vines – 25 years old – and where village wines are tended as if they were a Grand Cru; thus all the reds see 100% new oak. Denis Mortet’s immaculate vineyards are the key and no stone is left unturned in the pursuit of excellence.
The number of cuvées of village Gevrey has fluctuated in recent years. It was reduced to just one in 2005, two in 2006 and then expanded again to four in 2007: Gevrey on its own, Combes Dessus, En Champs and vieilles vignes. Other cuvées which have appeared from time to time include En Motrot, En Derée and Au Vellé.
The Domaine’s 10 hectares encompass 14 different Appellations, including two Grands Crus – Clos-de-Vougeot and Chambertin – and are a far cry from the days of his father, Charles, who started off with only one hectare.
93-95 Points Wine Advocate
The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux comes from 4 parcels of vines totaling around 0.5-hectares between 60 and 90 years that is worked by horse and sees 50% new wood (reduced from 80% in the past). It has a complex bouquet with maraschino, fresh strawberry, cold stone and orange rind that unfolds in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, slightly chalky in texture with firm backbone. There is a hint of white pepper loitering at the sides of the mouth, the finish assertive and demonstrative, lingering long like a grand cru. This is a serious, compelling Gevrey-Chambertin from Arnaud Mortet.
91-93 Points Vinous
Mortet’s 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux boasts incredible depth and energy along with a deceptively mid-weight personality. Dark red/bluish fruit, smoke and floral notes abound in the glass. The Champeaux has a pretty similar profile to the Vieilles Vignes, but with more depth and sustain. Here the flavors are bold and incisive to match the wine’s focused tannic presence. This is another 2012 that is going to require time.
92-95 Points Allen Meadows
Subtle but not invisible wood sets off cool, pure and impressively elegant aromas of red currant, plum and distinct sauvage notes. There is a lovely refined mouth feel to the delineated and equally cool middle weight flavors that brim with minerality on the linear and balanced finish. A classic Champeaux of finesse and refinement though don’t mistake refinement for lack of aging potential as this will definitely need time.