Jacques Reynaud, who died in 1997, was one of the true characters in Châteauneuf. A notoriously shy and private man, he was known to avoid appointments by hiding in ditches that lined the rutted driveway leading to his château. However, he was recognised as one of the world’s greatest winemakers and the legacy of Château Rayas is now continued by his son François.
So many practices here seem to run contrary to other producers in Châteauneuf – the 13 hectares of vines are north facing and contain none of the fabled “galets roulés”. Only Grenache is used and yields at around 15hl/h are ridiculously low. Almost uniquely the wines are matured in the now rarely seen 450 litre “double-piéce” oak casks. These are substantial and exotically rich wines that are quite literally unique.
98 Points Vinous
The 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réservé is at the start of its broad drinking window. Prominent kirsch liqueur, forest floor, strawberry compote, dried meat, rosemary, pressed violets and sage are only some of the many aromas and flavors that jump out of the glass. Refined to the core, the athletic 2012 packs a laser-like focus and flawlessly integrates the elevated alcohol. This is a remarkably uplifting Rayas with less obvious punch compared to riper years like 2009 or 2010, but the levels of intensity and finesse are jaw-dropping.
98 Points Decanter
There are yellow hints to the orange-pink colour. Totally classic Rayas aromatics, red-fruited in style with touches of mint to the strawberry and orange rind. Full-bodied, with generous alcohol, fine-sand tannins and good acidity. Underneath there are some herbal nuances and pine needles from the whole-bunch fermentation. An easy-going, relaxed, fairly potent vintage of Rayas that’s ready now, and full of charm and interest.