The story of Penfolds starts in 1844, when Dr Christopher Dawson Penfolds and his wife Mary purchased 500 acres near Adelaide, a mere eight years after the establishment of the colony of South Australia. Today Penfolds owns substantial holdings throughout South Australia’s most important wine regions, including the five hectare ‘Magill’ vineyard – now surrounded by housing in the city of Adelaide – from the original 1844 purchase. In the Barossa, Penfolds owns and draws from more than 600 hectares of vineyards, with the Kalimna vineyard the jewel in Penfolds’ crown. The 160 hectares (planted) Kalimna vineyard includes the famous ‘Block 42’ or ‘Golf Course Block’, planted in 1888, housing the world’s oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines. Penfolds also owns vineyards in the Adelaide Hills, Clare Valley, Coonawarra, Robe and Bordertown.
Penfolds, of course, produces a huge range of wines and styles, drawing on fruit from growers throughout Australia. Whilst its big reds from the Barossa are its best-known, a broad range of styles from numerous varieties are made. At the top of the tree is Grange (formerly Grange Hermitage), which is Australia’s best-known and most-beloved wine.
99 Points James Halliday
he core of this wine is Barossa Valley Shiraz (85%) the remaining 15% shiraz (and 4% cabernet sauvignon) from the Clare Valley, Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale and Magill Estate. In time honoured fashion, it finished its fermentation in 100% new American oak hogsheads, where it spent the next 17 months. It has exceptional hue and depth to the colour; the smoky complexity to the black fruits (no red or blue) of the bouquet also offers licorice and earth aromas; only a great Burgundy could have more nuances defined each time you revert to the bouquet. You could lose yourself, Narcissus-like, looking endlessly into the reflection of the palate; for all its power, there is not a hair out of place, the tannins outstanding. There is not the slightest question this will be one of the greatest Granges in the pantheon of ’52, ’55, ’71, ’96 and ’06. Drink by 2060.