Bruno Clair started his own domaine in 1979 with small holdings in Marsannay, Fixin, Morey and Savigny Dominode. Alongside this sat his family’s Clair-Dau estate, one of the great Burgundian domaines, however following the death of his grandfather Joseph Clair family disaggreements sadly lead to its dismantling in 1985. The following year, to add to his own small domaine, Bruno was entrusted with the vineyards of his parents, brothers and sisters which included those of Clos de Bèze, Cazetiers, Clos St-Jacques, Vosne-Romanée, Clos du Fonteny and Chambolle-Musigny. Bruno Clair’s wings are spread widely over the Côte d’Or covering nine appellations in total.
Bruno, first and foremost, is a vigneron adopting an approach that involves back-breaking vineyard work and minimal intervention winemaking, using a mixture of large old wooden foudres and smaller barriques for the long slow ageing process. New oak, though used, is kept relatively low – rarely going above 40% even for the Grands Crus. Edouard and Arthur Clair, Bruno’s sons, are an exciting, committed new generation gradually taking over, gently introducing a few enhancements such as increased whole bunch percentages and less sulphur usage. There is no doubt that Bruno Clair have upped their game over the last ten years and have well and truly broken into the top league of estates in the Côte de Nuits.
94 Points Allen Meadows
The natural coolness of Clos St. Jacques is in evidence as the nose is quite fresh despite the obvious ripeness of the essence of various red berry aromas that are cut with hints of spice, smoke and earth. There is excellent richness and plenty of minerality to the relatively well-detailed middle weight flavors that possess fine vibrancy before culminating in a mouth coating, intense and still markedly firm finish that delivers very fine depth and length. As one would reasonably expect, this still very much of a baby as the tannins coat the palate on the robust and powerful finale. This is impressive but patience absolutely required.
94 Points Wine Advocate
The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques is showing just a fraction of its true personality. Dark red fruit, minerals, and flowers come together in this textured, highly expressive Burgundy. There is an element of elusiveness that slowly gains clarity in the glass. The flavors build beautifully to the round, inviting finish. This is truly gorgeous juice. AG