The modern era of Champagne Philipponnat began in 1910 when Auguste and Pierre Philipponnat established their Champagne house in its current location of Mareuil sur Aÿ. Things were tricky then: before long, the world would be at war, and the region was only just beginning to recover from the phylloxera crisis.
It was in 1935 that Pierre Philipponnat acquired their crown jewel: the Clos des Goisses vineyard. It’s 5.5 hectares of steeply sloping, south-facing vineyard (now 3.5 ha Pinot Noir, 2 ha Chardonnay, but back in 1964 it was exclusively Chardonnay), and makes one of the region’s most remarkable single-vineyard wines. With its thinly topped pure chalky soils and an average growing season temperature of 1.5 °C higher than the rest of Champagne, this clos is a special site, and the wine from it is truly remarkable.
Philipponnat is primarily a Pinot Noir house, and its vineyards are in prime Pinot Noir territory: Mareuil sur Aÿ, Aÿ, Avenay, and Mutigny. However, all cuvées contain at least 30% Chardonnay for freshness. Its 20 hectares of vineyards represent about a third of its total needs, with the rest being bought in from growers.
94+ Points Robert Parker Wine Advocate
The 2008 Extra Brut Grand Cru 1522 is also showing very well, offering up aromas of citrus, confit citrus, blackcurrants, marzipan and spice. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered and multidimensional core that marries the tangy acidic spine of the vintage with plenty of flesh and fruit, concluding with a long and chalky finish. While it’s in a very different stylistic register to the 2009, the two are on a similar qualitative plane. 2019 – 2040
94 Points James Suckling
The slightly dominant pinot-noir component (58 per cent) is outgunned by chardonnay’s grapefruit and lemons on the nose. Chalky, fresh and zesty, stony minerals here, too. The palate is dry, crisp and even with gently nutty warmth through the restrained, long and compact finish. Excellent.