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ProducerDomaine des Comtes Lafon
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Vintage2006
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Grape VarietyChardonnay
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RegionBurgundy
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Sub RegionMeursault
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SizeBottle
Domaine des Comtes Lafon is based in Meursault, where it has holdings in each of the finest Cru and Premier Cru vineyards in Meursault. They have a reputation for maintaining the signature character of each site in their wines. They don’t rest on their laurels, though, their red wines from their Volnay Premiers Crus are increasingly popular and should not be overlooked.
The domaine was established in 1869 by the Boch family and has remained in their care ever since – only changing its name when Marie Boch married Comte Jules Lafon in ‘94. When fourth-generation Dominique Lafon took charge in 1985, Domaine des Comtes Lafon already had a reputation for unconventional yet outstanding white wines.
At the time, most of the vineyards were leased out to sharecroppers; but by ‘93 Dominique had reclaimed all of his family’s vineyards and assumed full control of the domaine. Not only are the Lafons’ 15 individual vineyards located in the best appellations in Meursault and Volnay, but they tend to be very well situated within them, and are now cultivated according to organic and biodynamic principles. In 2010, Jasper Morris wrote in his book ‘Inside Burgundy’, that their white wines were “now consistently among the best in Burgundy, while since 1989 the reds have reached the top division”.
In ‘99 the Lafon family branched out, buying a domaine in the Mâconnais at Milly-Lamartine and making wines under the name of ‘Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon’. More recently, Dominique Lafon has also established a small label of his own bearing his own name.
90 Points Allen Meadows
This is a lovely combination of ripe orchard fruit and overt citrus aromas with a soft touch of exoticism where the latter can be found on the rich, naturally sweet and generous flavors that possess an undertone of finishing minerality on the persistent finale. This is substantially better than my in-barrel note.
89-90 Points Robert Parker Wine Advocate
Based on his holdings in En La Barre, along with Luraule and Chaumes de Narvaux next door to and above Gouttes d’Or respectively, and this year incorporating two barrels of young vines Genevrieres that were late finishing malo, Lafon’s 2006 Meursault features refreshing lime and pineapple; suggestions of raw rather than toasted nuts and grain; a silken but not at all creamy texture; and a long finish with cress, chalk, and pepper accents. This should be worth cellaring for 3-5 years. The almost briny, deeply savory 2005 is impressive if less refreshing or fun to drink today.