With more than 500 years of history and the lion’s share of one of Burgundy’s most hallowed grand crus, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is a cornerstone of Burgundian legend and a vinous dream for modern connoisseurs.
Certainly the greatest estate in Chambolle-Musigny if not in greater Burgundy, de Vogüé for 20 generations has been steward of the village’s top terroirs. The estate owns some 80 percent of grand cru Le Musigny, and a significant portion of grand cru Bonnes-Mares. Its premier cru Chambolle-Musigny is crafted exclusively from younger-vine fruit in Musigny and its Musigny Blanc is crafted from younger-vine Chardonnay grown also in Musigny.
The style of de Vogüé is the epitome of Chambolle—delicate aromas, refined yet profound flavors, a finish made of silk. These are wines that come into their own not ten years down the line but 30; a cellar without a selection of de Vogüé is a cellar missing the soul of Burgundy.
94 Points Allen Meadows
This too is quite restrained with almost exclusively red berry fruit and intense floral aromas that are high-toned and pure while complementing the supple, textured, dusty and extremely precise flavors that exude a quiet power on the brooding and linear finish that delivers outstanding length. This will require every bit of a decade to resolve the very firm structure. This is less elegant than the 1er but more powerful and the distinguishing character of the ’06 Bonnes Mares is the serenity that it projects. I thought that it would be good but this knocks on the door of being genuinely great.
94 Points Robert Parker Wine Advocate
Mint, concentrated red and black fruits, smoked meat, and black pepper pungently scent the De Vogue 2006 Bonnes Mares. These migrate with almost implosive intensity to a palate lushly textured though finely tannic and almost implacably dense yet shot through with electric energy. Here are both the caressing and invigorating aspects at once present in so many of the best 2006s, each accentuated. Like so many young wines of its appellation, this is relatively backward and slightly unruly, but the longer the wine takes on air the more both its senses of richness and energy are enhanced.