1996 Philipponnat ‘Clos Des Goisses’ L.V Extra Brut


The modern era of Champagne Philipponnat began in 1910 when Auguste and Pierre Philipponnat established their Champagne house in its current location of Mareuil sur Aÿ. Things were tricky then: before long, the world would be at war, and the region was only just beginning to recover from the phylloxera crisis.

It was in 1935 that Pierre Philipponnat acquired their crown jewel: the Clos des Goisses vineyard. It’s 5.5 hectares of steeply sloping, south-facing vineyard (now 3.5 ha Pinot Noir, 2 ha Chardonnay, but back in 1964 it was exclusively Chardonnay), and makes one of the region’s most remarkable single-vineyard wines. With its thinly topped pure chalky soils and an average growing season temperature of 1.5 °C higher than the rest of Champagne, this clos is a special site, and the wine from it is truly remarkable.

Philipponnat is primarily a Pinot Noir house, and its vineyards are in prime Pinot Noir territory: Mareuil sur Aÿ, Aÿ, Avenay, and Mutigny. However, all cuvées contain at least 30% Chardonnay for freshness. Its 20 hectares of vineyards represent about a third of its total needs, with the rest being bought in from growers.

2 in stock

SKU: PHILGOI96EC Category:


100 Points Jane Anson
Only small amounts of this vintage has been made available before now, so this is really an extremely special release from one of the last Champagne houses to be run by a member of its founding family. Now 25 years post harvest, this was a high acidity vintage, meaning it was always clear that it would age well, but also clear that Clos des Goisses benefitted more than ever from its south-facing slopes that allowed the Pinot to get beautifully structured and ripe to balance the acidity. Rich and nuanced in colour, golden amber, with evident body and powerful flavours of quince, tobacco, campfire smoke. A brilliant interplay between tertiary truffle and patisserie notes with elderflower, white peaches and lemongrass coming in halfway through to add lift. Precise and delicate bubbles, clear persistency, with a bitter almond finish. The house vintages are all aged in the traditional 18C cellars, riddled by hand. Very low dosage at 4.5 g/l – making it an Extra Brut (as are all the Philipponnat Champagnes). Bottled 1997, disgorged March 2021 (and just 600 bottles, going up to perhaps 900 maximum, for worldwide distribution). Would benefit from a short carafe before drinking, but the main priority here is to clear your schedule and enjoy.

99 Points Decanter
A special back-vintage release of the Clos des Goisses 1996 which has seen no other official commercial sales since its initial disgorgement. The bottles being offered via the Place de Bordeaux, which amount to less than 1,000, were disgorged in March 2021 having spent 24 years on their lees. A beautiful light caramel gold colour in the glass, this has aromatic intensity with a poised and delicate palate. So juicy and fresh, the high acidity of the 1996 vintage still evident with bright white fruits at the fore backed by buttery patisseries elements and some tertiary nuttiness around the sides of the mouth that give shape to the overall mouthfeel. An invigorating glass and one to savour the nuanced complexity. A dosage of 4.5g/l. Drinking Window 2021 – 2031.

98 Points James Suckling
Lots of bread dough and rancio with dried-apple and white-pepper aromas that follow through to a full body with a tight and beautiful palate of intense yeast and fresh pie. Raw pie crust at the end, as well as almond cream and some cheese. Steely. Unique late release. Drink now.

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